Travelling to Northeast is never easy. I reached the centre
of thinly populated Phek district in Nagaland, after a flight, a train, a bus
and a Tata Sumo stuffed with nine people. Situated at a few distance of Manipur
and Myanmarese hills, is the Chizami village, at a height of 4,700 ft.
The region constitutes 16 recognised Naga tribes by the
government, and about 150 unrecognised ones. The diversity is vast in this
state. Khezha, the tribe I stayed with, couldn’t understand the language just 5
villages away. Still, one thing that unites the people of Nagaland is their
pride. Shame is the other emotional factor of this place; elders try to teach
the one who are caught in petty crimes. All the villages have a wooden lock-up
in the centre. The wood has an itchy quality, so that when one tries to get out
of it, the more dreadful it becomes for them. Locals say that it the most
efficient way to control crime rate in the village. There are other such
effective punishments to deal with the offenders.
The pride of the Naga people, make them a wonderful host.
They offer almost everything to the guests, from frog legs, steamed bees and
fried bats to barrels of rice beer and wine.
I spent 3 winter months last year at one of the village. Had
a good time experiencing the village life, strolling down the paved streets
which often lead to navigate around chickens and lose the ducklings which
followed me everywhere. After 3 weeks stay, I gave into appeal of heading
towards some comfort, and jumped into a share-Sumo which was heading towards
the state capital, Kohima.
This hilly town is a bit more modern, that is still soaked
in the old-age goodness. The war cemetery, located in the heart of Kohima pays
homage to all the English and Indian soldiers who lost their lives during the
Japanese invasion in World War II. You can have of the rest of the town from
the spot located on the slopes of Garrison Hill.
It becomes dark by 4.30 pm during the winter. Shutters go
down with the sun, by 5 pm, and start preparing for dinner. During Festivals
like the Hornbill, the night life comes into existence. The place is decorated
with florescent fairy lights, and the main bazaar road turns into an insurgence
of colours.
Back in the village, I met Medowelo, who according to the
locals was the best hunter. Hunting still plays a special in the lives of the
Nagas. At a point of my visit to this place, I started to understand the
inhabitant’s strong relationship with nature and how purely they respect it. I
started to long for more, after three months of stay in this alien land.
Reaching
The nearest railway station and airport is at Dimapur,
Nagaland. From there, take a share cab to Phek district. Chizami takes 5 hrs
from Dimapur and 3 hrs from Kohima. Buses ply to Phek leave Dimapur every
evening if you want to get onto it.
Accommodation
Many villages in the state have a community guest house;
Chizami town inaugurated theirs in November. While in Phek and Pfutsero town,
Government and tourist bungalows are made available.
Travel Tips
Food in Chizami and its surrounding places is simple and
traditional. The highway is dotted with pork and rice hotels. A good pair of
shoes (gum boots during monsoon) and a strong travel bag is recommended. The
place has a vast range of birds and butterflies; do carry a book that can help
you identify these beautiful things.
